Sunday, April 24, 2011

Gone Fishing!

This weekend Ali, a Qatari friend and colleague, arranged for a fishing trip for five of us from the office. On the day three of them bowed out (naqb’oon!) but luckily three of Ali's friends joined us (Hassan, Mahmoud and Mohammed) so the trip wasn't canceled.

We chartered a small boat complete with a driver, bait, net, fishing line, and non-alcoholic drinks.


First stop was about 4 km from the shore, a floating Coast Guard station where you had to report who the occupants were and how long you would be. No I didn't take any pictures of the Coast Guard station, you learn quickly in the Middle East not take pictures of any kind of police/military/security installation.

We went out a few more kilometers and then dropped a long net, which we were going to pick up our way back.



After another couple of kilometers we stopped for fishing. I'm not up on my fishing terminology but I will describe what we did as "free-line" fishing. No rod or reel was involved. You had a fishing line with two or three hooks and a weight, baited the hooks (we used squid that the boat assistant helpfully chopped up for us), then you let the line sink into the water to the seabed and hold onto it with your hands ready to yank up when a fish bit the hook. While some of us used gloves we would only use them on one hand, you needed one hand ungloved to feel the slight tugging when the fish was nibbling the bait. The Gulf is a fairly shallow body of water, even 10 km out I figure the water was only about 35 to 40 feet deep.

These guys knew what they were doing -- we caught fish right away. Within 10 minutes we had a few fish, and while I was not as successful as the others it maybe took all of 20 minutes for me:



We were mostly catching a fish called Sherry (sp?). They are not particularly big fish like salmon but then again there's no way you could catch big fish using your bare hands on a fishing line! I didn't care, I was just glad to catch one. It's usually embarrassing when everybody else can catch fish but not you.

Soon the fish were building up in the boat but after a while they weren’t biting so we moved to some other spots to collect more. Occasionally we would catch something else like a small grouper or a small yellow fish called Nasr in Arabic. We kept pulling in more and more:



Most of the guys caught well over a dozen each, I caught six. My fish seemed to have a particular knack for eating my bait without biting the hook. More often than not I would feel nibbles, pull up the line, and see bare hooks with no bait on them! Not sure how they always did that. Ali was standing next to me and catching lots of fish so I started bugging him that he was stealing my fish.

One guy almost caught a barracuda! It was probably two and half feet long but as soon as he tried to haul it up into the boat the line snapped and it got away. I didn't manage to get a picture of it but I do have some wild proof that barracuda were definitely near the boat:




Yup, Ali caught a Sherry and while hauling it up a barracuda cut it in half! It had to be the most bizarre catch I've ever seen -- a half-fish.


After about four hours of fishing the sun went down and luckily for us in the darkness Mohammed spotted a large cargo ship bearing down on us, with almost no lights on it, so we maxed the engines to get away. We decided then to end the fishing and go back for the net. For some reason lugging up the net was a real effort. We soon discovered why:




The net had caught some steel fishing traps, three of them. We had to haul them all up to free our net before putting the traps back in the water. But the net had still caught a number of fish:



Including a parrotfish.

Mohammed, who fishes frequently in the Gulf, had never seen one caught here before. He decided to take it to his uncle who I guess knew more about fish in the Gulf.

After checking in with the Coast Guard we headed back and divided up the pretty full cooler of fish that we had. I only took about seven fish, what was I going to do with a bunch of fish? Thankfully I know some people with of a lot of pet cats who will hopefully use them.

All in all a great day was had. Free-line fishing in the Gulf was a great way to spend the day.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Qatari Wedding Photos

I mentioned in my blog a couple months ago that I attended a Qatari wedding (my friend Mohammed) and I've managed to acquire a few photos of the event. Mohammed said it was okay for me to post them.


First, the groom:




Sorry ladies, he's already taken!

(Actually wait a sec -- he can have more than one wife! Guess he’s still available if you don’t mind sharing.)

As the groom he is wearing a black robe called a bisht, which is typically worn only by VIPs, or at special events. Typically only the groom and his father (and perhaps an uncle or the bride's father) will wear it at a wedding. It's a great way to find the groom in a crowded room considering almost all the other Arabs will be wearing white dishdasha as well. Aside from the groom, his or the bride’s father, or an uncle, in the three weddings I have attended I have only once seen a guest wearing a bisht, and I found out later that gentleman was a revered close relative.

My understanding is that typically black bishts are worn in the evening, during the day the bisht will be a lighter color such as brown or yellow. This is not a hard and fast rule, occasionally a black bisht might be worn during the day, but I don't think lighter-coloured bishts are worn in the evening. In every wedding I've attended the groom and his relatives wore black bishts.

And there was sword dancing, here are two of my friends dancing past the singers:





And the groom joined in occasionally, when he wasn't greeting guests:




As an aside I would just like to point out that at least one person is wearing a black thobe. While white is the most common color amongst Qataris, in the winter other colors such as black or brown can be worn. They are made of a thicker material to protect against the cold of winter. If you see a picture of a Qatari in a non-white thobe chances are that the picture was taken in winter.

Thanks for sharing the photos Mohammed, and congratulations. If I can get hold of any photos with me in it I will post those as well.

Friday, April 08, 2011

Happy Birthday Karen

It’s my sister's birthday today so I just wanted to wish her a great day.

For the occasion I decided to look through some of my pictures to post this great one of her, from her wedding:




Happy Birthday Sis.

Tuesday, April 05, 2011

Gender Ratios in Qatar and other Islamic Countries

I was reading recent news articles about the 2010 census in India and a key item in the census was the surprising lack of women. According to the data the number of male children to female children under 6 is 109.7:100 (I believe for the overall Indian population it is 106.4:100). Typically the ratio should be around 101:100, though in the West there tends to be slightly more women than men. Yes, that means that worldwide there are more men than women, at birth the ratio of males to females is not completely equal, worldwide it tends to be around 105-107:100 but since men tend to die younger and also die a bit more frequently as children the adult ratio worldwide is typically around 101:100.

Yes, biology slightly favours giving birth to a male child. I'm not entirely sure why myself but I'm guessing there are many websites on biology that explain the phenomenon.

In India there is a significant preference for boys, both for taking care of the parents when they get older and because in many Indian societies the bride’s family has to pay significant amounts of money to the groom and his family for a marriage. This can make having daughters burdensome. As a result many Indians use ultrasound to determine if the fetus is a boy or a girl and have an abortion if it's a girl. India has passed laws to make sex screening of babies illegal but it is rarely enforced so the practice is still common. Wealth and education are not necessarily a factor, it appears that the gender ratio amongst the Indian middle class is no better.

According to the census India has 1.21 billion people now (Wow!). With only 940 women to every 1000 men by my rough calculations there are over 35 million missing women, and given the gender ratio is worse for children that discrepancy will only grow.

So what has this got to do with Qatar? I find that sometimes in the West people confuse social issues in India or other parts of Asia with social issues in the Middle East. Combine that with the West’s criticisms about how women are treated in the Middle East and many assume that similar gender ratio issues happen in the Middle East as well.

Well Qatar also had a 2010 census and the results are interesting. Qatar does have one of the most skewed gender-ratios in the world (100:31.6) but that is because of the hundreds of thousands of expatriates who are here in the construction and oil sectors, who are preponderantly men. When you look at the data for only Qatari citizens you get a more balanced picture.

Now for some reason they have not published the total number of Qatari men and women, instead you have to look at statistics such as people age 10 and older by region of the country, or work statistics. I grabbed the population age 10 or older statistics:

Qatari Men: 85,819
Qatari Women: 88,460

This means that the gender ratio is 100:103! It's an unusual result because for the reasons I gave above it would be unusual for there to be more women than men. There could be a number of reasons -- more men have gone abroad for education or work, the vehicular death rate is high here and I assume that it is primarily males who die in accidents, who knows. It does show that despite issues about women's rights in the Islamic world there is no issue here with female infanticide like in India.

So why is that? Here’s a few reasons:

Reason 1: the Qur’an says not to. Sura 6:151 makes expressly clear you should not kill your children out of poverty (as Allah will provide for them somehow).

Reason 2: the Qur’an has many verses about marriage and notes that the groom must pay the bride a bride-price (Mahr) which is hers to keep even if they divorce. And if a lady dies her parents are entitled to some of the inheritance. There is no issue about girls being a financial burden to marry them off.

Reason 3: divorce is acceptable as it is mentioned numerous times in the Qur’an. Thus marital splits do not necessarily have to end with killing the wife so that the groom can remarry (and under Islam he can have up to four wives anyway).


So does this mean there is no issue with gender ratios in the Islamic world? Sadly, no. While Qatar appears to be fine unfortunately in other countries societal customs have survived and in many cases have somehow been blended into the religion despite the fact that these customs have no basis in Islam. Case in point, the gender ratio in Pakistan. Sadly in Pakistan the gender ratio is little better than it is in India. I found a great paper on it here:


Gender Analysis in Pakistan (by Gary Smith)

I suspect that many of the Indian customs in discriminating against girls continues on in Islamic Pakistan. The paper has some excellent maps and diagrams showing the gender ratio in both Pakistan and India and, not surprisingly, the areas of India with the worst gender ratio are the areas in the north-west near Pakistan, while the areas with the worst gender ratio in Pakistan is the half of the country closest to India. It appears that the cultural biases towards girls has survived the introduction of Islam centuries ago.

This is an issue that I think the West should really be focusing on. Forget about veils and other "symbols of oppression", there are literally millions of missing women in countries like Pakistan and Bangladesh and efforts need to be made to change attitudes. The paper notes that there was some success in Sri Lanka with programs that provided food and health care to women, any programs like that should be brought into areas with poor gender ratios.

Sunday, April 03, 2011

Arab Card Games

This Saturday I had two of my Qatari friends over to play some card games. Qataris, like most Muslims, do not gamble but that does not stop them from playing card games for entertainment.

So while eating chips and dip they taught me two card games currently popular in Qatar.


1) “Hand” (Yes, an English word. It is not called by the Arabic word for “hand” (yad))

This game is similar to gin rummy except that it is played with two decks and your hand is 14 cards. Much like Rummy you gather three of a kinds, four of a kinds, and runs of suited cards but because you play with two decks any 3 or 4 of a kind must have cards of different suits. Your four Kings cannot contain two King of diamonds. However you cannot put down your runs/kinds while you play -- you have to wait until you have all 14 cards in runs and kinds before you can put them down. Also, unlike Rummy, with the exception of the very first play you cannot pick up the card that's been discarded by the previous player unless you are using it to put your 14-card hand down. This means you need to keep track of what cards get discarded since you will have no chance to get them later and possibly change your strategy once certain cards you need have been discarded by other players. There are also two jokers in the deck and they are wild but you can only use one of them to complete your hand. If for some reason you have both jokers then you will have to discard one of them, typically when you finish your hand.

Scoring is unusual. Lowest score wins. A player who finishes the hand loses 60 points and the other players get 200 points. However there are also multipliers: finishing by discarding a joker is double points, having your hand all the same color is double points, having your hand all the same suit I think is worth even more and so on. I believe there are all sorts of local rules and variants that adjusts the scores as well (for example, one of my Qatari friends said his friends tend to play that if someone completed their hand by picking up someone else's discard then the player who made that discard gains 50 additional points). You play a total of nine rounds and whoever has the least points wins.

Because you can never pick up the card that's been discarded everyone spends the early rounds simply drawing the top card and quickly discarding. The game is fast, people play with a lot of speed so that you hopefully will not be able to keep track of what's been discarded.

This game can get serious, in the comments section some guy is, like, all-caps freaking out about aspects of the rules. Just ask other people at the table how to play and they'll help you.



2) Brazillia (also Arabic for "Brazilian woman" but may be coincidental, my friends had no idea why it's called that)

[May 19, 2011 update: my friend Abdulla did some research and discovered two things:

1) in North America the game is known as buraco. The link has a better description than my blog post.

2) it likely got its Qatar name because a member of the royal family was introduced to it during a trip to Brazil and he introduced it to Qatar. That sounds like an urban legend to me though.]

This game also requires two decks. Players are dealt 11 cards and much like Rummy you have to do runs/kinds. Two side decks of 11 cards each are also dealt. The difference here is you can drop run/kinds once you have three or more and can add to them as the game progresses (so if you have three Kings dropped and draw a King you can simply add it to the three on the table already) but they don't count for a score unless you have seven cards (a run of seven or seven of a kind). Anytime when it is your turn you can pick up the discard pile -- but you have to pick up the entire discard pile.

2s are wild but you can only use a single 2 to complete any of the run/kinds you drop. Once you have included a 2 with a run/kind you cannot get it back, even if you draw the card that the 2 was representing. You can play that card though and have the 2 be a different card in the run. So for example if you put down 9-10-2-Q-K of spades, and later draw the Jack of Spades, you can put it down and now have 2-9-10-J-Q-K, with the 2 being an 8 or A.

You cannot get rid of the last card in your hand unless it is used to complete a run/kind of seven cards, though some house rules allow you to put the last card in the discard pile. Once that is done you're allowed to pick up a stack of 11 cards (previously dealt and kept to the side). After that once you have no cards you can grab the second stack of 11, if there are no stacks remaining the game is over.

When the game ends you count up your score. You get 100 points for every group of seven cards you put down with a bonus 100 if no wilds were used in the seven cards, 100 points for being the first to finish, bonus points if a 2 was used in it but not as a wildcard, -100 if your team never managed to pick up one of the extra stacks of 11, and then you also add up the value of the cards on the table (3-7 worth 5, 8-K and wilds worth 10, Aces worth 15) but subtract the value of the cards that are still in your hand. There are also other little things you can do to get points which I'm sure varies by who’s playing. My friends play a variant that when you're dealing out the cards for the side stacks if you picked up a stack of 22 cards then that is worth 100 points as well.

If after the first round someone has more than 1000 points and other players have less than 1000 points then in the next round the players with more than 1000 points cannot drop any run/suits unless the point value of that is worth 75 points or more. Winner is the first to 2000 points.

If there are four players then you play two teams of two. Once you put cards down your partner can put cards on it as well to help complete the run of seven (so if you put down 7-8-9-10 of diamonds and your partner has the Jack of diamonds he can put it down during his turn). In a four player game you don't have to put down a run if you pick up the discard pile. And no you're not allowed to tell your partner what cards are in your hand.

I will try playing these card games again next time my friends and I meet up, which should allow me to understand what people are playing next time I go to a shisha café. Playing card games are popular amongst the Arab clientele there.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Arabic Lessons -- The Ups and Downs of Learning Arabic

I have signed up for Arabic lessons at FANAR, the Islamic Cultural Centre, and they start next week. It will be good for me to get back into it and hopefully improve to the point where I can engage in conversation. This set of lessons will be at least three months, and I have to take a test on my first day to figure out what level I'm at so they can place me in one of the five levels of classes.

I have taken Arabic lessons before and while my Arabic is still not particularly good I would definitely consider it above what a tourist might know. I can also read the letters, albeit slowly. I'm particularly good in ordering food at restaurants, I don't recall why but I remember a lot of food names.

For those of you trying to learn Arabic, or are interested in learning it, here is what I consider the major challenges:

1) reading the letters

This is obvious to anyone who knows a Latin language as Arabic does not use Latin letters but instead uses a completely different script full of curved lines and dots. It is also read right-to-left, to further confuse most learners. One exception however is that numbers are left-to-right like they are in Latin languages, which adds an extra bit of confusion.

Also letters can look different depending on whether they are at the beginning of a word, middle of the word, or end of the word -- but not always as it depends on the letter. Three letters have four different versions depending on where they are. It takes a lot of time and practice to get used to the letters. I've known the letters for about four years but because I don't read Arabic much my reading is still very slow and I still confuse the odd letter (such as ‘n’ and ‘b’, which differ by whether the dot is above or below the letter. I can now sympathize with English learners who confuse ‘p’, ‘d’, and ‘b’.)

On the positive side though there are no capital letters, so it doesn't matter if it's at the start of a sentence or a personal name you still use the same letter as you don't have to capitalize it.

2) “hidden” vowels

Arabic only has three vowels (a, i, o/u) but there is both a long version and a short version. Unlike English where a long and short vowel has a different sound (e.g. ā vs ă) in Arabic the long and short vowel is more a matter of how long you say it (e.g. ooo vs o). This wouldn't be an issue except for one thing, short vowels are not written down. Only in very formal Arabic are symbols included that would indicate what the short vowel is, in everyday writing you just have to know they are there from experience.

Imagine if you saw the word ‘dg’. Is that dig, dog or dug? You might know from the context of the sentence but for someone just learning the language how are they to know what it is? They may not even be familiar with the words. Unfortunately there is no easy way around it, you just have to recognize the word. This becomes a bit frustrating.

A good example is if you saw ‘mhmd’ is that Mohammed or Mahmoud? Only from experience do you realize that Mohammed is spelt ‘mhmd’ and Mahmoud ‘mhmud’, which interestingly means that while Mohammed is a longer word in English than Mahmoud it is shorter in Arabic. Oh and don't forget we are supposed to read the words right to left so actually they are spelt ‘dmhm’ and ‘dumhm’. AND using Arabic letters which you struggle to read in the first place. Now you may have an idea why Arabic becomes a tough language to learn.

It also makes spelling the word troublesome when someone says it verbally. I still have never figured out the difference between when someone speaks a long vowel or short vowel so when someone says a word and I can hear the vowels I don’t know whether I'm supposed to write the vowel or not. My spelling is thus pretty bad.

3) doubles of letters, letters they don't have in Arabic, and letters we don't have in English

Arabic does not have a ‘g’ or a ‘p’ so English words with ‘g’, like, oh, Glen, have to be spelt with some other letters. In my case, the first letter of my name I have seen spelt with four different letters: ‘j’ (Jlin), ‘k’ (Klin), ‘q’ (Qlin’), and ‘ghr’ (Ghrlin). I can live with that.

They do however have two ‘s’, two ‘t’, two ‘z’, and two ‘h’, with the difference being in the pronunciation. Say the letter wrong and you might be saying a completely different word, or a nonsense word, a problem I've run into occasionally trying to use my Arabic on Arabic speakers.

Finally Arabic has letters that aren't in English at all, the most difficult for me being a letter called ‘ayn’ which is somewhat like a short breath out. I hate this letter, I have a tough time picking it out when someone says it verbally, and it is a consonant so can be followed by vowels such as ‘a’ (try that, a short breath out followed by an ‘aah’, weird isn't it?). When translating Arabic we tend to use ‘a’ for the ayn as it kind of sounds like a short, faint ‘a’, such as ‘Adel’, but in reality a closer way to spell it would be to use an apostrophe ( ‘del).

4) plurals

Arabic has a ton of different ways for pluralizing nouns and again for the beginner it is just a matter of knowing what the plural of a particular word is. There is no easy way to determine how to plural a noun. ‘Car’ is ‘sayyara’ and ‘cars’ is ‘sayyarat’ but the plural of ‘madina’ is ‘mudun’. I have no idea why. It isn't the case where there is a common way to plural a word and there are some "irregular" nouns -- there are simply numerous types of plurals and only through experience do you know which way to plural which noun. I always joke with my Arabic-speaking friends, "just add an ‘s’ dammit”, they just laugh, they realize that in English it is generally easier to plural a noun.

5) different words in different regions

You know how British-English differs a bit from North American English? Well, Arabic has been around a lot longer and covered a vast area before there was quick ways of travel. As a result the local Arabic can vary widely from region to region, to the point where speakers from one country struggle to understand a speaker from another country. Egyptian-Arabic appears to be the common standard that almost all Arabic speakers can understand because Egypt produces most of the Arabic movies and films, but it is well known that speakers from other North African countries such as Morocco or Algeria are nearly incomprehensible if they speak their regional dialect. Many Arabic speakers who aren't from the Gulf also struggle to understand Gulf Arabic.

So what is typically taught to the new Arabic learner? Well, maybe Egyptian Arabic if you are in Egypt, otherwise you will be taught classical Arabic.

Classical Arabic is a formal Arabic that is used in the Qur’an and religious texts. It is an older version of Arabic, analogous to someone speaking Middle English. The upside is that because almost all Arabic speakers are Muslim they will understand this form of Arabic, although it is not generally spoken in day-to-day conversation. The downside is that if you are taught classical Arabic you will never understand the local dialect if someone decides to speak that. Sometimes native Arabic speakers pause and have to "switch" their minds to classical Arabic when someone speaks it. Still, people generally understand what I say even though it is very different from how they might say it. For example:

“What” is “ma/matha” in classical Arabic but "shu/shinu” in Qatari Arabic.
"Why" is “lematha” in classical Arabic but “leysh” in Qatari Arabic.
“Aruz” is "rice" in both classical and Qatari Arabic but I believe in Egyptian Arabic it may also be used to refer to bread. Qataris tend to use “khubz” for bread.

I am going to assume that FANAR will also teach classical Arabic since they also do a lot of courses in Islam and Islamic studies. We'll see how it goes over the next few months and if I like the classes I will try to complete them all the way to the end of level 5.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

On The Troubles in the Middle East and North Africa

I'm sure some people have thought that, with all of the issues in the Middle East occurring recently, why am I not covering it more in my blog? Unrest in Bahrain, Syria, war in Libya, overthrow of governments in Egypt and Tunisia, and here I am discussing educational standards and marks on a recent test. Isn't there bigger things happening around me?

Sure there are but you know what, I don't really know much about it. Touring the old city of Damascus for a few days does not exactly make me an expert on Syrian politics, and a few business trips in Bahrain has not given me detailed firsthand knowledge of Shia - Sunni relations. I chat about the issue sometimes with my Qatari friends but with the exception of Bahrain they have about as much experience in these countries as I do.

My observations have been straightforward and rudimentary, countries where there is significant poverty, oppression, or both are typically where you see the most unrest and problems. The wealthier countries like Kuwait, UAE, and Qatar have had fewer to no problems. Interest in the Middle East has made the media jump on anything that smacks of protest against a country's government, whereas in the grand scale of things the protest might not be significant. A few hundred people protesting in one country is not a "revolution", and yet no one sees the hundreds of thousands of protesters in London as signifying a potential overthrow of the UK Government. Would you believe major news organizations covered the formation of a Facebook page calling for a mass protest in Qatar on March 16. A Facebook page?? If some guy setting up a Facebook page is evidence of regime change then the US must be in complete anarchy right now -- how many anti-Obama Facebook pages must there be?

Big surprise, nothing happened March 16. You can look at a blog post from a couple weeks ago where I discuss why there won't be any trouble here.This lady does a good job discussing it as well.

Qatar is a small country, maybe 250,000 citizens, and the old Arab ways of challenging power and making changes still prevail, mostly in backroom discussions, alliances and political maneuvering. The current Emir took over from his father in a bloodless coup, and his father took over from his brother (the Emir’s uncle) in a bloodless(?) coup, and now many members/factions of the clan have been vying for power whilst also ensuring that other clans do not gain to much power themselves. I'm sure the Crown Prince was chosen more for his political ability than for his age (he is not the eldest son of His Highness). A weak Emir will quickly fall to a faction within his own clan.

I heard a story once, I'm not sure how true it is or not, that reports circulated through the Qatari grapevine that His Highness was severely ill. Apparently almost any Qatari of any importance who was out of the country immediately flew back, to prepare for the possible clandestine “battle” for secession should His Highness pass away. I've often wondered about the truth of this. I do believe though that because of the incredible transformations that have occurred in the country in the last 15 years, and the winning of the World Cup bid, His Highness's position is secure for a good long time. As long as he maintains his health things should remain stable. But backroom politics appears to be the Qatari way of life.

It's a shame we don't have more history or information on this, it would make a great soap opera, reminiscent of the backroom dramas of Machiavellian Italian families during the Renaissance.

There won't be any rebellions in Qatar. For insight into what is going on in the other countries you should search for articles from people from those countries who will provide excellent insight into the troubles and problems. That's what I do.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Qatar and the PISA test -- further analysis

Back when the PISA 2009 results came out one commenter pointed out that while Qatar's marks were still low they had made significant improvements from 2006, which indicates that the reform measures taken by the Supreme Council of Education are making an impact. I'll reserve judgment on that until we analyze marks from a number of countries. The test changes from year to year so if countries at the bottom improved then it could indicate that the test was easier than the previous one. If all the countries improved than the test was definitely easier.

Unfortunately not a lot of countries in the bottom range had taken the test in 2000 or 2003, and some aspects of the test changed over the period, so I will only take the 2006 and 2009 results:

(Sorry about the mess, the table formatting didn't carry forward, the last number in the line is the change from 2006 to 2009)

Reading: 2006 2009 difference

Canada 527 524 -3
Japan 498 520 22
UK 495 494 -1
USA na 500 na
OECD avg 492 493 1
Portugal 472 489 17
Mexico 410 425 15
Tunisia 380 404 24
Uruguay 413 426 13
Qatar 312 372 60
Kyrgystan 285 314 29

Math: 2006 2009 difference

Canada 527 527 0
Japan 523 529 6
UK 495 492 -3
USA 474 487 13
OECD avg 499 496 -3
Portugal 466 487 21
Mexico 406 419 13
Tunisia 365 371 6
Uruguay 427 427 0
Qatar 318 368 50
Kyrgystan 311 331 20

Science: 2006 2009 difference

Canada 534 529 -5
Japan 531 539 8
UK 515 514 -1
USA 489 502 13
OECD avg 500 501 1
Portugal 474 493 19
Mexico 410 416 6
Tunisia 386 401 15
Uruguay 428 427 -1
Qatar 349 379 30
Kyrgystan 322 330 8

The results definitely support the view of the commentator, Qatar had easily the best improvements of the countries selected, in all three categories. Even countries near Qatar in terms of 2006 results had mixed improvements, although all of the bottom six improved to some degree in almost all categories.

Qatar still has a long way to go though. Scores below 400 are pretty bad, and as I noted in my previous post Qatar had a number of good performing schools which means there were a lot of schools performing even below the low-300s.

If you're not sure what exactly a score means I recommend you take a couple of the sample questions, which can be found here:

http://www.oecd.org/document/31/0,3746,en_32252351_32236191_41942687_1_1_1_1,00.html

Science question 12.2 was pretty enlightening, and one of the worst results for Qatar. (Summary the question: in an experiment on corn scientists chose 200 different fields to have the experiment in, why did they use so many fields?). 74% of 15-year-olds in the OECD got the question right, in Qatar it was 30%. Yet the question was multiple-choice with only four different answers, so even by random guessing you'd expect 25% to get it right. Yikes.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Qatar and the PISA test

Less than a week ago Qatar held a ceremony to recognize the schools that did the best on the recent PISA test. That in and of itself was nice as it publicly announced those schools whose students did well on the test but even more impressively at the website for the Supreme Council of Education they actually reported the scores that those schools had on the test.

So before we take a look at that lets recap some of the scores from the PISA results:

Reading:
Shanghai 556
Korea 539
Finland 536
Hong Kong 533
...
United States 500
...
OECD average 493
...
Qatar 372

Mathematics:
Shanghai 600
Singapore 562
Hong Kong 555
Korea 546
...
OECD average 496
...
United States 487
...
Qatar 368

Science:
Shanghai 575
Finland 554
Hong Kong 549
Singapore 542
...
United States 502
OECD average 501
...
Qatar 379


Ready for how some of the local schools did?

In first place was Al-Khur International School (Indian stream, they also have a British stream)
Reading 603.77, Mathematics 591.73, Science 565.98

Take a look at those scores again, and compare them to the country averages.

Wow!! Those are some very impressive scores! The reading score absolutely destroyed any country average.

The reading and math score was what propelled the school to the top of the Qatar chart, believe it or not despite their great science score there were a few schools that scored better than they did in science with the best of them, Birla Public-School, scoring 586.

Ultimately 14 schools in Qatar had scores that exceeded the OECD average, for which they were honored in the ceremony. Another 16 schools were also given certificates for high achievement. A number of the schools in the top 14 were Indian or South Asian. I wish that India and other countries in that region would also sign up to do the PISA test as it would be interesting to see what the overall country scores in that region would be.

It is great that the Supreme Council for Education is really embracing the PISA test and not trying to hide what are clearly difficult results in terms of country average. Hopefully they will continue to implement reforms in order to improve education for students.

Now for the tough question: according to the article students in 153 schools were tested and the average for all categories was in the 360 to 380 range, which is a pretty poor score (search for PISA on this blog to get an idea of what countries were below that score). If Qatar has a number of schools that perform really well on this test, what does that say about the state of education in many of the other schools who participated? By the time you got to the 30th school the scores were still in the mid-400 range yet the average was a lot lower. This means there are a lot of schools who likely scored in the high 200s-low 300s, and if the SCE is not asking what the heck kids in those schools are learning during their time there -- they should. Children are either:

1) Not be getting an adequate education; or
2) there is some significant external factors affecting the scores (language difficulties?)

In either event a thorough investigation is needed.

No, I don't want to hear any excuses about how some of them are religious schools that focus on Islam, that does not excuse abysmal scores in reading and mathematics, especially reading. In fact one would think a religious school would score pretty high in reading given the focus on the Qur’an, Sunnahs and Hadiths. No, those schools are in need of significant reform of some sort and I hope the SCE are looking at these schools carefully.

In my next blog post we will compare how Qatar has scored in the 2009 test with the previous tests that it wrote to see if there have been any improvements. I recall a couple of comments on this blog pointing out that Qatar had improved, but had it improved significantly compared to its peers?

For the article and the list of schools please go to the link below:

http://www.english.education.gov.qa/content/resources/detail/13217

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Bahrain unrest – what about Qatar?

It appears that things are starting to get more out of control in Bahrain. Saudi Arabia has sent troops in, and possibly the UAE as well. The protesters say this amounts to an “invasion”. Al Jazeera reports hundreds have been injured in clashes and at least two people have died (one protester, one Saudi soldier).

I was at a conference today in Qatar. Many people planning to attend from Bahrain could not make it, and at least one person I know who lives in Bahrain left early to go back to help his family. There is talk of some companies moving their staff out of Bahrain, and travel warnings have been issued by some governments.

I will reiterate from an earlier post -- there has been no unrest in Qatar, nor will there be (see my post from a couple of weeks ago for why). Despite their close proximity they are two very different countries and the Qatari population does not have the kinds of problems with poverty, unemployment, and sectarian discrimination that one finds in Bahrain. There is no widespread discontent in Qatar with the ruling family.

While Bahrain was in the midst of unrest I was having a nice buffet lunch at a hotel with insurance executives from around the GCC and Europe. Yesterday the Minister of Finance himself was at the conference giving a speech. There was no extra police or security, and no metal detectors suddenly installed at the door of the hotel. En route to the conference we drove past the Emiri Diwan (where the Ministers and foreign dignitaries meet with His Highness) and there were no police cordons or extra security. Traffic at the airport is on schedule. Everything’s cool here.

Don't worry about me, don't worry about Qatar.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Happiness amidst tragedy -- traditional Japanese entertainments

A while ago the Japanese embassy here in Qatar announced an evening that featured traditional Japanese performance art, to be held at the Museum of Islamic art this evening. I definitely signed up because while I am a bit familiar with some types of Japanese performances (Noh, Kabuki, tea ceremonies, etc) I had not heard of either of the types that would be performed this evening. With the current tragedy of the earthquake and tsunami in Japan there was talk of canceling the event but in the end the Japanese ambassador decided that it should go on. In his opening speech he pointed out that the purpose of these entertainments was to entertain and bring laughter, something that was sorely needed in these sad times. We did observe a minute of silence for the victims of the disaster.

There were three performers, doing two different types of traditional Japanese art:

Two of the performers demonstrated Rakugo (Japanese comedic storytelling). The storyteller sits on a small stage and tells a long comedic tale with many characters, using changes in facial expression and voice to switch from character to character. Traditionally he is only allowed two props -- a fan and a small piece of cloth. The first performer, Shumptei Shoumatsu, gave a demonstration of Rakugo, the props, the basics of the art, and then performed a dance doing first a male and then a female dancer, putting the small cloth on his head to represent the switch to the female dancer. You didn't really need the cloth the change in the dance style and his moves clearly indicated the gender. The second Rakugo performer, Sanshotei Charaku, told a tale of a boatman, who is not very good at his craft, taking two passengers across a river. The story was in English and he was quite good. We were surprised at the end when during a Q&A we found out he didn't know much English at all. He had memorized the story in English for the performance!

If you would like to see a Rakugo performance just search for it on YouTube, I believe there are a few videos including some performances done in English.

The other performance was Japanese paper-cutting, called kamikiri. The performer takes a sheet of paper and cuts intricate designs and characters out of the paper while chatting to entertain the crowd. It is common to do requests (various animals, etc) and the kamikiri artist performing for us, Mr Hayashiya Imamaru, could also do portraits of people and detailed scenes. Every time the final product typically took a minute or less yet the intricacy of a lot of the shapes were astounding. Some people in the audience were gasping at what he managed to cut out of a piece of paper so quickly (e.g. three men drinking sake under a cherry tree). He had also previously cut out a number of smaller figures which he handed out to children in the audience. There also were examples of his work outside the performance hall, these were more intricate and done with many different colors of paper. Some of them looked like Japanese paintings.

The Internet is a wonderful thing and I was able to find a video of a kamikiri performance, and it turned out to be Mr. Imamaru! Watch and enjoy:

http://www.japanstyle.info/06/entry6885.html

Monday, March 07, 2011

Moving Apartments

So last week the main thing taking up my time was that I moved apartments. For the past year I've been living in an expensive part of town (West Bay) and I found that it wasn't all it was cracked up to be. For one thing that neighborhood is very sterile; nothing but skyscrapers surrounded by parking lots and one mall. Your whole neighborhood life pretty much revolved around going to the mall, or possibly one of the really expensive hotels where you can have an overpriced drink. You didn't have lots of people milling around, small businesses, cheap little restaurants, just skyscrapers. I needed to move somewhere that had more soul.

But one of the issues that had me move last year to West Bay, near to the office, was the traffic. Traffic in Doha can be pretty bad at times and for a while there the morning commute was getting to be 45 minutes. It was pretty annoying given on a weekend you could do the same commute in 15 minutes. So I needed a balance, a place in the neighborhood with a bit more soul but with a short commute.

Thankfully a friend of mine was living in an apartment complex in the neighborhood near the Diwan (essentially the palace where the Emir works from). He and his wife had a one-bedroom apartment and since I'd been there before realized that it was more spacious than the one I was living in. They said there weren't any real issues with maintenance or anything like that, and the building had a gym and a small pool. It was in the neighborhood with a bit more life, and since it was on the edge of the city close to West Bay the commute is only been 15 minutes, which was a big selling point to me. That and being about half the price of what I was paying didn't hurt either. Thankfully an apartment was available so I took it.

Now price wasn't a huge issue as prices have really started to come down in West Bay. In the past year I've seen prices in some buildings go down over 30%. Looks like supply and demand finally caught up to that neighborhood. Since a couple more apartment towers are opening up in that neighborhood I expect prices to go down even more. If anyone is looking to move to West Bay I really suggest looking at all the towers to see what prices they offer -- it's a renters market now.

I didn't have much stuff to move but in 2010 I purchased a couple of bookcases. Thankfully I knew someone with a truck who was willing to help me move and a couple of other buddies pitched in with moving boxes. One trip with the truck and a couple with my car and I was done.

I've nearly finished unpacking now I have to get maintenance up your to work on a few things, and I need to sort out how I'm going to juggle the lack of plugs. There seemed to be an adequate number in the living room and bedroom but I never bothered to look at the kitchen -- there is only one plug there! So one plug has to do for the microwave, kettle, and all other small appliances. Weird.

Anyway I've been settling in okay, I think I like it here.

Friday, February 25, 2011

A Tale of Two Countries -- Qatar and Bahrain

While I was away on vacation there was a lot of action in the Middle East with protests against governments in many countries -- Egypt, Tunisia, Libya, and Bahrain. These protests were very disruptive to their respective countries and in most cases there were battles with police or the army, and a number of deaths. I've already been asked by a few people that since Qatar is so close to Bahrain whether Qatar is at risk for any kind of protest or strife?

I highly doubt it.

Despite their close proximity, their shared history, and close ties (many Qataris have relatives in Bahrain and a number of tribes have a presence in both countries) the two countries have significant differences, and these differences mean that while one country has unrest the other is fine. So what are the differences? Here are some that I know of:

1) Wealth

Bahrain was one of the earliest of the Gulf countries to utilize its petroleum reserves and this brought it significant wealth, it also gained a lot of the regional financial services industry back in the 70s during the unrest in other parts of the region and Lebanon. Unfortunately it is a small country and it wasn't long before it had used up most of its oil. Meanwhile other countries in the region gained prominence and attracted away many of the companies (at first Kuwait, then after the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait the UAE became the major hub). Bahrain today is not as wealthy as many of its neighbors, and many Bahrainis have issues with poverty, finding affordable housing, and simply making a living. For example I believe all of the taxi drivers in the country are Bahraini.

By contrast Qatar has significant reserves of oil and gas and only in the last decade really begun to tap those reserves. Its reserves in comparison to its size and population are massive, this has allowed Qatar to have the highest per capita GDP in the world. The Qatari government is also utilizing a lot of that money into benefits for its citizens: free healthcare, free education (even paying for university abroad), monthly allowances when you get married and have children, a generous pension plan for government workers, assistance with building your first home, subsidized water and electricity, and I'm sure there are many more benefits. There are no significant issues with unemployment and Qataris tend to be employed in the government, large energy companies or banks, or running their own businesses. No Qatari works as a taxi driver.

2) Sunnis and Shi’as

There are two main groups in Islam: Shia (this is the main form of Islam in Iran), and Sunni (predominate in most of the rest of the Islamic world, including Saudi Arabia). The schism that created the two occurred early in the history of Islam and ever since there have been times of peace and times of strife between the two groups. An analogy for Westerners would be the problems that occurred between Protestants and Catholics since the Reformation. Things have been relatively peaceful between Protestants and Catholics now, with the possible exception of Northern Ireland, but for centuries there have been wars, purges, and violence on one or the other group. Sectarian violence between Shia and Sunnis still tends to flare up every now and then, with Iraq and Lebanon being good examples. This is one of the main reasons why much of the Islamic world has tensions with Iran. I suggest viewing the recent Wikileaks diplomatic cables regarding Iran, Saudi Arabia, and the UAE if you want to see examples of the mistrust.

In Bahrain the majority of the citizens are Shi’a (I believe around 60%) yet the Royal Family and most of the people in power are Sunni, so you essentially have a Sunni minority ruling over a Shi’a majority. This has caused problems -- Shi’as accuse the ruling Sunnis of discrimination and limiting access to good jobs and housing. I can't tell you to what extent this is true or not but such accusations have existed for years. Protests in Bahrain by the Shi’a majority tend to occur every couple of years or so and many Shia clerics and other leaders have been imprisoned or have had to flee the country. The recent chaos in Tunisia and Egypt has really lit a fire under the Shi’a citizens who immediately began mass demonstrations in Bahrain, much bigger than in the past.

In Qatar however the majority of citizens are Sunni, well over 90%, so you do not have the level of sectarian tension that exists in Bahrain. While I'm not sure if there is any discrimination in Qatar against Shi’a I've never heard of any. I do know that some of the wealthiest businessmen in the country are Shi’a so I don't think there is any kind of "glass ceiling" in terms of being allowed to be successful, though that may or may not be the same in government. There have certainly never been any mass protests by Shi’a in the time that I have been here. Qatar also maintains reasonable relations with Iran, and had invited them to the last GCC summit that was held in Qatar.

3) Qatar won the 2022 World Cup bid

Thanks to the successful 2022 World Cup bid Qatar is in the midst of a wave of nationalistic pride. In about 15 years His Highness the Emir has taken this country from obscurity to the international spotlight, managing a feat that a couple of years ago even I highly doubted would ever happen. If there were such things as popularity polls here in Qatar I'm sure right now His Highness would be enjoying the strongest results of his entire reign.


So why do I not think there'll be any problems in Qatar? A wealthy country whose citizens are comparatively well-off, a government that has been using some of that wealth for the benefit of its citizens, a demographic that minimizes sectarian tensions, and the pride that comes from hosting the World Cup.

Other Middle East rulers may be having some sleepless nights. There won't be any problems here.

Friday, February 11, 2011

On vacation

Sorry, forgot to mention I'm away for the next two weeks in Canada. I'll see about doing a post or two while I'm here.

Saturday, February 05, 2011

Gas prices

For the first time since I've arrived in Doha almost 5 years ago the Government has raised the gas prices. It was a massive increase, around 30 to 40%! Oh well I guess the government-subsidized cheap gas wasn't going to last forever.

It's really brutal now, supreme is now $0.27 a litre! I at least take some small consolation that I usually use premium at $0.23 a litre. Even then though it costs at least $9 for me to fill my car.





:-)

Friday, January 28, 2011

Qatar and road safety

So did anyone see that semifinals thrashing of Uzbekistan by Australia 6-0. I was there, thanks to a ticket provided by an Australian friend. What a blow-out that was, the score should have been even higher. Needless to say the Australians were happy.




Moving on to road fatalities in Qatar the papers recently had the statistics for the number of road fatalities in 2009. Thankfully they also included the number of cars on the road, which allowed me to make a rough estimate of the number of deaths per 10,000 vehicles, a standard measure of road safety.

Before I continue I discussed this issue back in 6 October 2007 on this blog, here is what I had to say back then:

The newspapers recently reported that last year Qatar had 207 road fatalities, which works out to approximately 6.9 deaths per 10,000 vehicles on the road. For comparison this webpage has the deaths per 10,000 cars rate for most countries in the world for 1996, in the US the rate was 2.0, Canada's was 1.8. Thus 6.9 is pretty bad. The Government has just passed tougher laws and installed more speed cameras in an attempt to crack down but people are skeptical as to whether it will be enforced. Time will tell. I think the problem is not the laws, it is just that enforcing those laws, and punishing reckless drivers, is weak at best.

So three years later, what's the results:

http://www.thepeninsulaqatar.com/qatar/140532-road-accidents-claimed-226-lives-last-year.html

226 deaths divided by the average number of vehicles on the roads (755,000-688,000 / 2 = 721,500) equals a death rate per 10,000 vehicles of 3.13, which is a substantial improvement.

But wait . . . I think something might be wrong with my original 2006 calculations. The newspaper article mentions the 2006 death rate was 270, not 207, and for the death rate to be 6.9 there would have to be only 300,000 vehicles in Qatar in 2006. I highly doubt the number of vehicles on the road has gone from 300,000 to 755,000 in four years. Time to recalculate the 2006 rate.

I could not find statistics from the traffic department for the number of vehicles on the road in 2006. If we take the percentage growth mentioned in the news article over 2010 and apply that rate back to 2006 (which I think might be a bit generous because growth stalled up a bit during the financial crisis in 2008-9) leaves the average number of vehicles during 2006 at about 497,000. That would equate to a death rate per 10,000 vehicles of 5.43, much lower than my 6.9 calculation earlier but still way higher than Western countries.

So in three years the death rate per 10,000 vehicles has gone from 5.43 to 3.13! That is excellent news and it would appear that the measures the Government was putting in place to try to reduce traffic deaths are working. Still have a ways to go though, after this article was printed an Irish colleague looked up similar statistics for Ireland and we determined its rate was 1.32. If the Qatari government could get the death rate that low it would have saved 130 lives in 2010.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Asian Cup 2011

The last few weeks has seen the Asian Cup 2011 here in Doha which allowed me the opportunity to take in a few games to see some first-rate teams. I'm actually going to one this afternoon. Once I took a look at the schedule there was one game I definitely wanted to see -- Iran versus North Korea. An ‘Axis of Evil’ matchup! I told a couple Americans they should show up and bring an American flag, or maybe pictures of George Bush, that would be amusing. No, there was no way I was going to do it myself, I'm a friendly Canadian. I also wanted to see if, like the recent World Cup in South Africa, North Korea was going to fly in a couple hundred of obedient citizens to be flag-waving fans. A Qatari friend of mine went with me as he wanted to see them too. Sure enough when I got to the stadium outside were a couple of hundred North Korean men (no women) all in line who were then marched in to the stadium in groups. They had North Korean flags and some of them had pins with a picture of ‘Dear Leader’. They also had a leader who would direct them on cheers. A British guy was trying to get them to trade a flag or a pin but I don't think they understood English and even if they did I doubt they would've done it. It turned out that my seats were only about five rows away so I was pretty close to them and could record a video (the cheerleader is in the middle of the video): North Korea lost 1-0 and eventually did not make it to the elimination round of the tournament. So I guess they flew all of the citizens back home. I wonder what they thought of Doha, given that it is clean, modern, and has electricity that works 24 hours a day (unlike North Korea)? I wonder where they stayed? I doubt it was in one of the nice five-star hotels. Did the visit maybe shake any misconceptions they might have about life outside of North Korea? Somehow I doubt it. It is highly unlikely they would have been allowed to come along if they were not Triple-A Grade devotees to Dear Leader and most of them looked to be in their 40s or 50s so they may have been former military personnel. Off to Australia versus Iraq now, thus I will have seen all three ‘Axis of Evil’ teams.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Qatar and Chores

The last couple of days I've had a bad cold which means just lounging around the house going through tissues. The sore throat affected my voice so much I couldn't even use my speech recognition software that well. Seems to be abating now though which is a good thing -- I hate being sick.

We'll keep this entry short. There was a recent article in the newspaper surveying Qataris regarding domestic chores. Most of it is pretty much what you'd expect from a conservative society, lots of “women should do the household chores and men shouldn't”. However, I found one interesting difference from what we would consider a "traditional" Western view:
Some 43.5 percent of the respondents said couples should do shopping for the household, while 27.8 percent said the onus should be on the head of the family. Another 22.4 percent said wives must do the shopping alone.
More stated that the husband should be the one doing the household shopping, not the wife. I don't think this was ever the prevailing view in the West, that would land squarely as part of the wife's work.

So why is that? It may have to do with the view that the person making the money should be the one who has the decision on spending it. Could also be in part due to views that women should not go around unescorted (now that I think about it how would the wife do her shopping alone if she expected to have a male relative along?)

Anyway from my experience you do not see many Qatari women doing the grocery shopping on their own, usually it is with their husbands. I never thought about that many Qataris feel that the husband should be the one doing the shopping. I have seen many Qatari men on their own doing grocery shopping but never thought they were routinely doing the grocery shopping for the household.

I will try to keep my eyes peeled for that to see just how prevalent it is.

Friday, December 31, 2010

2010

So the year has come and gone. Think I'll reflect a bit on what happened this year by going through the photo albums:



chilling at the beach, Qatar




with a ceremonial sword at a Qatari wedding, Wakra, Qatar




at an Olympic hockey game, Vancouver





taking a break during a London Walk of Kensington





Boh tea plantation, Malaysia





chilling out with a shisha, near the Inland Sea, Qatar






with my nephew Aiden (I couldn't find a picture of me with my niece Karis though ?!?), McKay family Christmas, Calgary





a picture of a picture taking a picture of me taking a picture of the picture, Victoria and Albert Museum, London





a centuries-old hammam (Turkish bath), Istanbul





getting sophisticated with a cocktail, Vancouver





At the Jet d’Eau, Lake Geneva






Me with a durian (smells bad, tastes good), Kuala Lumpur






Hitting a few balls at the driving range with my friend Tyson, Vancouver





My friend Serdar showing his son the Istaklal Cadessi, Istanbul






flying business class with my friend David, East Putney, England





Iftar dinner at the Cigale Hotel, Doha





Banff, Alberta






With my sister Karen during the Winter Olympics, Vancouver





At the wedding of my former housemate Janel, in Bermuda.





At the CERN particle accelerator, Geneva





Iftar dinner at an Iraqi restaurant, Souq Waqif, Doha





At an NHL game, Calgary





At a surprise birthday dinner (for me) hosted by some friends, Doha





the families and the wedding party relax after my sister's wedding, Penticton, British Columbia





at a fish spa, Kuala Lumpur (it really tickles!)





In front of Abbey Road Studios, London





Digging for desert roses with my friend Serdar and his family, Qatar's southern desert






I'm happy. Vancouver.



Happy New Year everyone!

Thursday, December 30, 2010

Qatari Wedding (Arab Wedding)

Okay, I've got a lot of blogging to catch up on. My Qatari friend is back from his honeymoon and gave me some photos from the wedding! Looking back through the blog I realized I hadn't told everyone what happened at the wedding (see what I mean about backlog).

I met up with a group of friends and we all went to the Sheraton hotel where the wedding was being held after the evening prayer in one of the large conference rooms.

Having the wedding in the hotel rather than a tent definitely makes it a touch more upscale, and expensive. But I don't think this was a typical wedding -- that day another Qatari colleague came to me to show me a full page ad in a local newspaper about my friend's wedding and congratulating him. A full page! My first question was, does the ad mention where the wedding is going to be held? Thankfully the answer was no, or else half of Qatar might have shown up.

When we got there I estimate there was about 100 men there already, and over the course of the evening I estimate that well over 800 people were there at some point or another. My friend (the groom) was at the far end of the room with two other men all wearing black bishts, his father and the bride's father. We immediately went over to shake hands with all three and congratulate them, then got out of the way as there was a lineup. We had an opportunity later to meet up with the groom again to have pictures.




We then spent most of the time chatting amongst ourselves and eating the appetizers provided by various waiters wandering around the crowd. Other colleagues and friends came in and we would chat with them after they had greeted the groom. We also briefly met a couple of ambassadors who had attended the function. It turns out many ambassadors were there. A few other men had shown up also wearing bishts, which meant they were likely VIPs (I found out later that some Ministers from the government attended). No chance that His Highness would be showing up though -- he was in Europe working on last-day efforts to win the 2022 World Cup bid, which as we now know succeeded.

After a while dinner was served in the banquet room next door. Like the previous wedding the main dish was lamb on rice on a platter, with a variety of mezzah in small bowls around the table. The difference in this case from the previous wedding I attended was that all of the food was served on tables and everyone had cutlery. Some Arabs stuck with tradition and used their hands anyway. There was also a dessert buffet.

It was during dinner that we noticed there was a woman eating at the head table, which I found odd because I didn't think women went to the men's wedding. She was Caucasian and not wearing an abaya so she definitely was not a family member. Someone speculated that she was likely an ambassador and so as a representative of a nation be allowed at the men's wedding (I found out later that she was the German ambassador).

After the dinner many returned to the main room where they continued to chat with the groom and occasionally did sword dancing when a group of singers started performing.

Eventually the groom joined them at which point most of the men were dancing.






I don't know this kid but he's dressed to the nines. :-)


The wedding was over by about 10 and I returned home. In the next coming weeks some of the local Arabic newspapers had full page or in one case two-page spreads with photos from the wedding. Looks like the wedding hit the society pages.

A great time was had by all.